What is it about St. Patrick’s Day that makes a quarter of the American population pretend they’re Irish, guzzle beer, and gobble corned beef and cabbage? And why corned beef and cabbage? Aren’t there other Irish dishes that are equally good? Not that I’m a fan of C B& C – I’ve never found any that were better than my mother’s; she’s Italian -she can make anything taste good.
I’ve always thought the worst part of that dish was the cabbage; sickly pale green, mushy, smelly – what’s the attraction? Even without the potatoes and beef, cooked cabbage just has never had any appeal to me. Yes, it’s inexpensive; yes, it keeps for almost eternity; yes, it’s a primary ingredient in a lot of international cuisines. Even so, cabbage is just one of those vegetables that I shun. It’s rumored that over-cooked cabbage causes gas – who needs to take that risk, finding the critical point between just enough – which means bitter – and miserable indigestion? Of cabbage, sixteenth century writer Richard Burton wrote, “It causeth trouble-some dreams and sends up black vapours to the brain…” History proves I’m not alone.
However, last month my cabbage phobia vanished in a gustatory revelation. My husband had brought home a tiny, green cabbage – locally grown, organic, tightly packed leaves and so crisp and bright it literally shone. I quartered it, braised it with some mild Italian sausage and cannellini in a thick, garlicky sauce. It was delicious! Sweet, earthy, thoroughly cooked yet still crunchy, and best of all, it had no obnoxious smell. My husband even ate the core – that’s how tender and tasty it was.
You might say now I’m semi-converted; I’ll readily eat cabbage, though only when it’s our locally grown products – I’m convinced none can be better. Since cabbage is an excellent source of dietary fiber and vitamins, particularly C and some of the B’s, it’s worth seeking out your local organic grower’s product. Over-cooking will lower its nutritional value, consuming it raw will give you the biggest boost. Our chef, Alphonsine, likes it thinly sliced with a sprinkling of red wine vinegar. Here she shares one of her favorite preparations.
By the way, if you plan to drink like an Irishman come March 17th, do like the early Romans and Egyptians: start your meal with raw cabbage seasoned with vinegar. Their standard treatment for a nasty hangover was more cabbage. You never know – it might work.
As we get ready to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, Alphonsine Haslet-Phillips, the chef at Coho Restaurant proposes a new twist on ‘Beef and Cabbage’
Spiced Rib Sandwiches with Horseradish Cream and Coleslaw
For the Coleslaw:
1/2 Green Cabbage, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. Red Wine Vinegar
3 Tbsp. Olive Oil
2 Tbsp. Italian Parsley, chopped
Kosher Salt
Freshly Ground Pepper
Place cabbage in a large bowl. Drizzle the vinegar, olive oil, parsley and toss together. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Taste for seasoning and adjust to your palate. The slaw should be tangy, bright and highly seasoned. It will contrast with the earthy richness of the meat.
Use a soft pliable baguette for the bread. (A hard bread will not contain the ingredients when you are eating, causing a mess!)
Directions:
1) Begin by making the shortribs (this may be done up two days in advance). See Recipe. When they are done remove from the liquid and cool at room temperature.
2) Meanwhile assemble the coleslaw. Set aside.
3) Mix the horseradish spread. (See recipe here) Set aside.
4) When the meat is cool enough to handle, gently shred the meat, not too big or small. Place in a bowl and serve alongside the coleslaw and horseradish spread.
5) When everything is ready, cut the baguette into 4″ portions, split in half, and lightly toast in the oven.
6) Pile on the ingredients and enjoy!
Chef’s Notes: I learned so much about braising meets from Mel at Dinette. It is a really magical way to transform a piece of meat into something so wonderful. We served these ribs as a rich succulent winter dish over spiced mashed potatoes, wilted mustard greens, and garnished with a horseradish cream. Or you can go totally opposite and serve it with summer barbecue, potato salad, corn and sangria.
6 lb. boneless short ribs
1/2 c. ketchup
1/4 c. maple syrup
2 1/2 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme
1 Tbsp. Fresh Rosemary
2 Tbsp. Kosher Salt
1/2 c. Peeled and sliced ginger root
8 lg. garlic cloves
1/2 c. dry red wine
1/4 c. red wine vinegar
1 1/2 Tbsp. Ground Coriander
1/2 tsp whole allspice ground
1 Tbsp. Paprika
1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
3/4 tsp Black Peppercorns, ground
1/4 c. Canola Oil
8 C. Chicken or Beef Stock
1. Mix together ketchup, maple syrup, thyme, rosemary and salt in a bowl. Set aside
2. Place ginger, garlic, red wine and red wine vinegar into a blender and grind until it forms a paste. Add the coriander, allspice, paprika, cayenne pepper and black pepper and blend until completely combined. Set aside.
3. Heat the canola oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, carefully add the ginger-spice mix and cook for 5 – 8 minutes. Stir occasionally. The spices will bloom and become very fragrant. Remove from the heat and cool.
4. Stir the cooled ginger-spice mixture into the ketchup mixture.
5. Pour over boneless beef short ribs. Marinate 24-48 hours.
6. Scrape the marinate into a large pot and add 8 cups of chicken or beef stock and bring to a boil. Pour over ribs. Cover pan with foil and place in 300 degree oven. cook for 2 1/2 hours until fork tender. Cook longer if needed.
7. Remove meat from pan being careful not to break or meat will fall apart. Strain sauce and set aside in the refrigerator.
8. When fat is solid enough to scoop, scrape off. Place remaining broth in saucepan and reduce to 4 cups. Taste and season accordingly.
9. Pour over ribs. Reheat in oven at 300 degrees with covered foil.
Note: While this seems like a long involved project, but by spreading it out over a couple of days it is really easy. The ribs will be ready whenever you want to reheat.
Horseradish Cream
Sour Cream or Creme Fraiche
Freshly Grated Horseradish
Prepared Horseradish
Fresh Italian Parsley
Salt and Pepper
Place all ingredients in a bowl and whisk together until you reach the desired consistency and spice.
Lodging and Dining Friday Harbor, WA San Juan Island
Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn
Coho Restaurant
