It’s said we’re “the banana belt” of the Pacific Northwest, in the “rain shadow” of the Canadian Mountain Range, meaning the rain passes over the top of the mountains and arcs right over us to dump onto the mainland.  Why, we even have a store here called Banana Belt Boutique.  That said, it’s still far from most people’s interpretation of “warm,” and we still get our share of rain.  The difference is, the rain doesn’t faze us – we just keep doing what we’re doing, business as usual.  I remember the first Island Stage Left production I saw; it was held at the director’s home, folding chairs set up in front of the simple, uncovered, outdoor stage.  It started raining, and the actors – professionals that they are – never skipped a beat; they just kept on with the performance as if nothing had happened.  The audience members simply pulled their jacket hoods up and continued to enjoy the show.

That’s life on the island.  We just keep doing what we do, rain be damned.  And one of the things we do here is grill our meals; if the weather can’t stop a theater performance, it certainly won’t stop us from grilling outdoors.  We love barbecues at South Beach or Jackson’s Beach no matter what the weather.   Indeed, what could be better than freshly-caught grilled wild salmon?

Though the grill at Coho is inside, this Italian Salsa Verde, goes well on any grilled meat, seafood, or poultry, whether is was cooked under a powerful range hood or the simplest outdoor grate.  It’s one of our most commonly used condiments at the restaurant, most recently making its appearance paired with a brined pork chop stuffed with a purée of baby spinach, toasted pecans, Quail Croft Goat cheese and Parmesan.  The key is to use a variety of fresh herbs, and to chop them by hand to avoid bruising the herbs.  Let your creativity go wild here, substitute any tender herbs you might have on hand.

What could be better than freshly-caught grilled wild salmon?  That same dish with Italian Salsa Verde, that’s what!

Italian Salsa Verde

2 C packed Italian parsley leaves

1 1/2 C packed mint leaves

2 C loosely packed basil leaves

1/4 C capers, drained and rinsed

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbs shallots, minced

2 anchovies, rinsed and chopped

2 Tbs Dijon mustard

1 lemon, zest and juice

1 tsp red chili pepper flakes

1 C olive oil

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chop all the ingredients by hand.  Place the herbs in a bowl with the olive oil.

Whisk in the remaining ingredients.  It should be brightly colored and tasting.  Drizzle over prepared meats and serve the remainder in a bowl on the side.  Will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days.  Discard when “swampy” tasting or discolored.

For news about happenings at our inns and on the island, go to Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn.

What is it about St. Patrick’s Day that makes a quarter of the American population pretend they’re Irish, guzzle beer, and gobble corned beef and cabbage? And why corned beef and cabbage? Aren’t there other Irish dishes that are equally good? Not that I’m a fan of C B& C – I’ve never found any that were better than my mother’s; she’s Italian -she can make anything taste good.

I’ve always thought the worst part of that dish was the cabbage; sickly pale green, mushy, smelly – what’s the attraction? Even without the potatoes and beef, cooked cabbage just has never had any appeal to me. Yes, it’s inexpensive; yes, it keeps for almost eternity; yes, it’s a primary ingredient in a lot of international cuisines. Even so, cabbage is just one of those vegetables that I shun. It’s rumored that over-cooked cabbage causes gas – who needs to take that risk, finding the critical point between just enough – which means bitter – and miserable indigestion? Of cabbage, sixteenth century writer Richard Burton wrote, “It causeth trouble-some dreams and sends up black vapours to the brain…” History proves I’m not alone.

However, last month my cabbage phobia vanished in a gustatory revelation. My husband had brought home a tiny, green cabbage – locally grown, organic, tightly packed leaves and so crisp and bright it literally shone. I quartered it, braised it with some mild Italian sausage and cannellini in a thick, garlicky sauce. It was delicious! Sweet, earthy, thoroughly cooked yet still crunchy, and best of all, it had no obnoxious smell. My husband even ate the core – that’s how tender and tasty it was.

You might say now I’m semi-converted; I’ll readily eat cabbage, though only when it’s our locally grown products – I’m convinced none can be better. Since cabbage is an excellent source of dietary fiber and vitamins, particularly C and some of the B’s, it’s worth seeking out your local organic grower’s product. Over-cooking will lower its nutritional value, consuming it raw will give you the biggest boost. Our chef, Alphonsine, likes it thinly sliced with a sprinkling of red wine vinegar. Here she shares one of her favorite preparations.

By the way, if you plan to drink like an Irishman come March 17th, do like the early Romans and Egyptians: start your meal with raw cabbage seasoned with vinegar. Their standard treatment for a nasty hangover was more cabbage. You never know – it might work.

As we get ready to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, Alphonsine Haslet-Phillips, the chef at Coho Restaurant proposes a new twist on ‘Beef and Cabbage’

Spiced Rib Sandwiches with Horseradish Cream and Coleslaw

For the Coleslaw:

1/2 Green Cabbage, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. Red Wine Vinegar
3 Tbsp. Olive Oil
2 Tbsp. Italian Parsley, chopped
Kosher Salt
Freshly Ground Pepper

Place cabbage in a large bowl. Drizzle the vinegar, olive oil, parsley and toss together. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Taste for seasoning and adjust to your palate. The slaw should be tangy, bright and highly seasoned. It will contrast with the earthy richness of the meat.

Use a soft pliable baguette for the bread. (A hard bread will not contain the ingredients when you are eating, causing a mess!)

Directions:

1) Begin by making the shortribs (this may be done up two days in advance). See Recipe. When they are done remove from the liquid and cool at room temperature.

2) Meanwhile assemble the coleslaw. Set aside.

3) Mix the horseradish spread. (See recipe here) Set aside.

4) When the meat is cool enough to handle, gently shred the meat, not too big or small. Place in a bowl and serve alongside the coleslaw and horseradish spread.

5) When everything is ready, cut the baguette into 4″ portions, split in half, and lightly toast in the oven.

6) Pile on the ingredients and enjoy!

Chef’s Notes: I learned so much about braising meets from Mel at Dinette. It is a really magical way to transform a piece of meat into something so wonderful. We served these ribs as a rich succulent winter dish over spiced mashed potatoes, wilted mustard greens, and garnished with a horseradish cream. Or you can go totally opposite and serve it with summer barbecue, potato salad, corn and sangria.

6 lb. boneless short ribs
1/2 c. ketchup
1/4 c. maple syrup
2 1/2 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme
1 Tbsp. Fresh Rosemary
2 Tbsp. Kosher Salt
1/2 c. Peeled and sliced ginger root
8 lg. garlic cloves
1/2 c. dry red wine
1/4 c. red wine vinegar
1 1/2 Tbsp. Ground Coriander
1/2 tsp whole allspice ground
1 Tbsp. Paprika
1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
3/4 tsp Black Peppercorns, ground
1/4 c. Canola Oil
8 C. Chicken or Beef Stock

1. Mix together ketchup, maple syrup, thyme, rosemary and salt in a bowl. Set aside
2. Place ginger, garlic, red wine and red wine vinegar into a blender and grind until it forms a paste. Add the coriander, allspice, paprika, cayenne pepper and black pepper and blend until completely combined. Set aside.
3. Heat the canola oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, carefully add the ginger-spice mix and cook for 5 – 8 minutes. Stir occasionally. The spices will bloom and become very fragrant. Remove from the heat and cool.
4. Stir the cooled ginger-spice mixture into the ketchup mixture.
5. Pour over boneless beef short ribs. Marinate 24-48 hours.
6. Scrape the marinate into a large pot and add 8 cups of chicken or beef stock and bring to a boil. Pour over ribs. Cover pan with foil and place in 300 degree oven. cook for 2 1/2 hours until fork tender. Cook longer if needed.
7. Remove meat from pan being careful not to break or meat will fall apart. Strain sauce and set aside in the refrigerator.
8. When fat is solid enough to scoop, scrape off. Place remaining broth in saucepan and reduce to 4 cups. Taste and season accordingly.
9. Pour over ribs. Reheat in oven at 300 degrees with covered foil.

Note: While this seems like a long involved project, but by spreading it out over a couple of days it is really easy. The ribs will be ready whenever you want to reheat.

Horseradish Cream

Sour Cream or Creme Fraiche
Freshly Grated Horseradish
Prepared Horseradish
Fresh Italian Parsley
Salt and Pepper

Place all ingredients in a bowl and whisk together until you reach the desired consistency and spice.

Lodging and Dining Friday Harbor, WA San Juan Island
Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn
Coho Restaurant

In a metal bowl sprinkle gelatin and water. Soften for a few minutes. Whisk in yolks and sugar and place over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook until digital thermometer reads 160 degrees.
Remove from pan beat until egg mixture is cool and thickened (about 5 minutes). Mixture has consistency of taffy.
Beat in pumpkin and spices. Chill covered for about an hour or until thickened.
Beat cream and vanilla until still peaks form. Fold in pumpkin. Place mixture in large pastry bag with large tip.
Line up 16 champagne glasses and add about 1 teaspoon of ginger snaps to each glass. Layer pumpkin mix alternating with ginger snaps.
Garnish with gingersnaps and dried cranberry and dollop of whip cream if you dare.
Yields 16 servings.

Note: This make ahead dessert is perfect for busy holiday entertaining and the presentation is quite exquisite too!

Lodging and Dining Friday Harbor, WA San Juan Island
Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn
Coho Restaurant

Lodging and Dining Friday Harbor, WA San Juan Island
Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn
Coho Restaurant

1/2 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic diced
1/2 tsp. black pepper or lemon pepper
pinch of saffron
bunch of fresh parsley
Salt to taste
1-2 large onions sliced in rings
1-2 lemons sliced in wedges – pits removed
1 chicken cut into parts
1-2 cups of green olives – with our without pimentos

Optional:
1/4 tsp. Chinese 5 spice
1/2 tsp. Mrs. Dash
1 TBLS ground coriander
Capers
Marinated artichoke hearts

Orange Rice or Couscous:
Substitute orange juice for water

To make chicken:
Add saffron, garlic, and spices to olive oil in large pot or casserole dish and heat gently until the mixture turns bright yellow.

Simmer onion rings, lemon slices, parsley and chicken pieces on low heat in covered pot for about 2 hours. As the chicken cooks, the fat from the skin and the moisture from the onions and lemons will make a tasty sauce. Adjust the fat content by removing some of the chicken skin as desired during the cooking process.

When the chicken flakes off the bone, remove the chicken pieces and allow to cool.

Add green olives, capers, and artichoke hearts and continue cooking uncovered to thicken the sauce.

Debone the chicken removing skin. Add chicken meat to the sauce and reheat.

Meanwhile, make orange couscous or rice.

Serve chicken on a bed of rice garnished with fresh parsley.

Lodging and Dining Friday Harbor, WA San Juan Island
Harrison House Suites and Tucker House Inn
Coho Restaurant

Eggnog CheesecakeCrust:
1 c. graham cracker crumbs
3 Tbls. melted butter
Filling:
24 oz. cream cheese
1 c. sugar3 Tbls. all-purpose flour
2 eggs
2 Tbls. rum
1/8 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Combine graham crackers and butter and press into buttom of an 8 inch spring form pan.
3. Bake for 10 minutes until golden brown. Cool.
4. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
5. In a food processor, combine cream cheese, sugar, flour and eggnog and proces until smooth. Blend in remaining ingredients untill combined. Pour into crust.
6. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven to 250 degrees and bake for 45 additional minutes until center of cake is barely firm to touch. Cake will continue to solidfy as it cools. Run a knife around the edge of the spring form pan. Cool on rack and refrigerate over night. Enjoy!

Don’t forget to take a moment to relax away from the hustle and bustle of the season. Savor the Season and the San Juan Islands. Our best to you and yours for a fabulous holiday season filled with great food, fun, and friends!